If you struggle with acne, oily skin or pores – chances are you have used AHA or BHA products. They are ubiquitous as natural acids that help exfoliate the outer layers of skin to help clear pores, calm sebum and create clearer smoother skin. Of course, these are normally in lower concentrations to provide a good balance between exfoliation and avoiding irritation. So, what happens when you pour 30% acid in a bottle and give it to the masses to place on unsuspecting skin? Is this peeling serum the secret to the softest skin – or is it going to melt your face? Let’s find out! 

Heimish is a long-standing K-beauty giant in both gentle skincare as well as make-up. They’ve created a variety of products that helped balance the skin biome, whilst also making you look your best. From their make-up removing All Clean Balm 120ml to their Artless Glow Base (which acts as a sunscreen and primer in one) to their Marine Care Eye Cream which contains filtered ocean water and seaweed extracts. 

So, when their Rx range launched – I was deeply curious. They created a set of brand-new serums, that each targeted a different skin type: from dry (Hyaluronic acid 2%) to aging (Retinol Bakuchiol 1%) to uneven skin tone (Multi Vitamin 7%). My acne-prone skin looked excitedly and the serum designated was a strong chemical peel (AHA BHA 30%). 

I, like many oily and acne-prone skin types, have used AHA, BHA, LHA and PHA in a variety of ingredients. I don’t have sensitive skin and have used chemical exfoliators, peeling gel and a massive range of face masks. But I hadn’t directly used a high-concentration acid peel before. The back of the box said ‘for Advanced users’ and I was a little concerned – but I am nothing if not reckless, so I performed my usual cleansing routine, dried my skin and was prepared. 

Glycolic Acid: (210,000ppm) an AHA that is the most common used in skin peels. It’s used to treat acne, acne scarring, melasma, hyperpigmentation and aging due to UV damage. It has a high safety profile when used correctly, removing superficial-to-medium depth skin cells and debris. 

Lactic Acid: (90,000ppm) natural, organic AHA used in chemical peels. Used in ancient Egypt in yoghurt baths for softer, smoother skin and is mild and moisturizing.  

Salicylic Acid: (5,000ppm) natural BHA extracted originally from willow bark. Designed to reduce redness, irritation and helps exfoliate to treat acne, melasma and UV damage.

Mandelic acid: natural AHA that is ideally used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation. Improves elasticity and firmness, whilst improving skin tone. 
Citric acid: natural AHA that exfoliates to improve skin thickness and used to treat acne and UV damaged skin. 
Sodium hydroxide: on its own is a massive skin irritant – is highly basic and used in this formula in a tiny amount to help balance the acids. Presence of acids helps balance and prevents irritation due to the sodium hydroxide. 
Hyaluronic acid: natural humectant that helps draw water into skin cells to maintain moisture. 
Panthenol: soothing vitamin B5 that helps moisturize, improve cell proliferation and differentiation for softer, smoother skin. 
Allantoin: natural, moisturizing molecule that helps reduce irritation and promotes skin growth and repair. Encourages skin regrowth after exfoliation. 
Niacinamide: brightening B3 used to improv skin barrier, reduce irritation and even skin tone. Found in almost every new K-beauty product due to its glass skin ability. 

This is a high-potential irritant for skin. The purpose of a chemical peel is to remove the entire outer layer of skin cells to help reduce breakouts, pigmentation and to refresh skin. 

Thus, if you have a damaged skin biome, heavy or irritated acne blemishes, irritated or sensitive skin – this should be avoided until your skin is healthier (or is likely not the product for you). 

The stronger a product, the more likely it will yield stronger results – but it also means it can be dangerous to use in certain circumstances. 

So, please avoid this product if you have: 
- any irritated, open sores or broken skin 
- are younger than 18 (if you have more youthful skin, you have to be more gentle to it) 
- have dry, flaky skin 
- have sensitive skin 

This product is designed to help manage a variety of skin conditions, such as the following: 
- rough patches of skin 
- fine lines and wrinkles 
- acne scarring 
- areas of superficial pigmentation 
- oily skin that triggers breakouts 
(*) Try to avoid when you have active breakouts, wait until irritation has settled. 

The box has clear details – which I was careful to follow. I tried a spot test the day before, applying a single drop to the back of my hand, spreading it a little and waiting 10 minutes before rinsing it off. There was no irritation, so I was happy to start the treatment.  

It says to apply across face and only leave for maximum 10 minutes. The moment I opened the serum, I tapped a timer for 9 minutes to ensure I had good results – but not so much that I was risking any damage to my skin. 

I applied about three squeezes of serum, one to each cheek and one to my forehead and gently spread it across my skin and massaged it very lightly. I noted the bright red serum clung to my pores and settled into them, which I took for a good sign that they would exfoliate those areas. I sat with my phone and watched the timer carefully. 

I had some older acne spots that stung slightly on applying the acid and there were more sensitive parts of my face that I could feel a prickling feeling of the acid, which was mildly uncomfortable – but not more dramatic than other treatments I had done. 

As soon as 9 minutes was up, I rinsed my face with warm water and followed with a good, foamy cleanser to ensure it was completely washed from my face. I was a bit paranoid about my face drying out (which is common with chemical peels), so I was careful to apply some hydrating serums and moisturizer after. 

Immediate effect: The next day I woke with an episode of red spots that appeared on my cheeks. These were not whiteheads, but rather little red spots that reminded me of purging, but just seemed like light irritation. These went away over the next few days and I waited until they were gone (about 4 days) before I did another peel. My face also felt much softer to touch.

Second peel: I did a second peel after 5 days and felt the acid more on this application. Already the previous peel had removed enough skin that I was a little more concerned with the second application and I washed my face after 8 minutes as I noticed some redness. I went to wash my face and noticed so, so, so much dead skin coming off. I cleansed with a soft foam cleanser and over the next 24 hours, my skin was shedding little balls of dead skin cells. 

I was actually shocked at how much was coming off – and it was just a sign of how strong this acid peel really was. After 48 hours, I was obsessed with how soft and smooth my skin felt. As an oily type, I’m not meant to touch my face too much – but I absolutely love the velvety feel of my skin. It made all the careful application and post-moisturizing worth it! 

Here is the before and after of my skin (prior to the first peel) and after 1 week of use: 

I was delighted by the reduction in red spots and irritation after 1 week. There was a transition period of irritation after the first and second use, but after 24hrs each time the irritation was calmed well with my favourite hydrating products (Cosrx 96 Snail Essence and Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum). 

I would not recommend it for more fragile or sensitive skin types - but if you are like me and have more thicker, oily skin it was a great refresh. I have noticed a wonderful reduction in redness two days after each peel and my skin feels so much cleaner and refreshed.

Using a stronger chemical peel is not for everyone – but if you are trying to get softer, smoother skin and try to balance an uneven skin tone, it’s a great tool! With some light scarring from previous acne, I’m excited to note the immediate effect after two uses. 

So, if you are looking for something to provide a stronger exfoliation and skin refresh - this is a great start, even if you are a beginner. It's easy to use, easy to wash off and leaves minimal lasting irritation.

It is important not to overuse and this is likely a product I would recommend using once a week (using more if you have really oily skin or high rate of skin cell shedding). Be sure to use any chemical peels carefully and keep in mind that it leads to a dramatic change of the skin biome and needs to be used thoughtfully. 

Heimish Rx range and AHA BHA 30 Peeling serum available on Arktastic!