Medicube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot 2000 Serum | Do Microneedles Cure Acne?
Medicube is a beauty world-leader who lives in experimentation. They take the newest and most exciting skincare technology and push it beyond its known limits. From PDRN to skincare technology to even the humble (yet exciting) applications of turmeric synergy – Medicube has delivered it all with a variety of skincare lines. They chase trends with the tireless energy of true scientists; because the worst case is something doesn’t work out and they start again. Their azelaic acid range, complete with cleanser, toner and a trio of serums, seemed to follow a lot of similar beats of other azelaic acid skincare... but they added spicules?
Medicube was already well-known for their beloved spicule serums in other skincare lines, which always came in two strengths (2000 and 7500). Their PDRN serum is deeply adored, for its ability to infuse deep healing PDRN and peptides deep into the skin for an immediate firmness and lift to skin that is unparalleled by other brands. I did a review of it and was amazed by how much lift there was to my cheek and firmness. But... it caused an acne outbreak due to the irritating nature of the spicules. So, I was bewildered by the appearance of an azelaic acid spicule serum.
Azelaic acid is spectacular at treating acne. Really, anyone who struggles with acne should try it out! This is due to its trio of action: eliminating acne-causing bacteria, calming inflammation and gently exfoliating away dead skin cells and sebum to prevent clogged pores. It’s also found great ability to treat dark spots, rosacea and generally refresh irritated skin. So, putting it in a skincare line has been a popular choice (giving people options at how to incorporate azelaic acid to their routine). But the addition of spicules was a new thought. It will boost absorption of the azelaic acid (due to the use of exosomes), but surely the irritating spicules would risk further acne outbreak? I had to put it to the test to find out!
What's In The Bottle?
Niacinamide: brightening vitamin B3 that helps lift dark spots and even skin tone for a natural, golden glow.
Spicules: microneedles extracted from freshwater sponge that help form channels in skin barrier for deep absorption of skincare products. Also improves exfoliation and collagen production.
Neem extract: rich, plant-based acne treatment that balances the immune system of skin, whilst eliminating acne-causing bacteria and triggering healing pathways for clearer skin.
Ivy Gourd extract: rich in antioxidants and stimulates skin healing, whilst reducing damage from pollution, environmental agents and oxidative stress of cells.
Adenosine: boosts skin cell collagen production and general elasticity of skin, perfect for fine lines.
Holy Basil extract: rich in antioxidants, antimicrobial agents and anti-inflammatory compounds to deeply soothe redness and irritation.
Eggplant fruit extract: rich in phenolics and anthocyanins to protect skin against UV damage, cool redness and boost collagen production for a healthy and improved skin biome.
Aloe vera extract: deeply moisturizing and soothing succulent extract rich in water that helps plump skin and calm redness.
Turmeric root extract: medicinal extract that helps reduce dark spots and blemishes, whilst improving skin barrier function.
Red seaweed extract: rich in minerals to soothe and moisturize skin for stronger protection against environmental pollutants and stressors.
Panthenol: soothing and hydrating vitamin B5 that helps improve skin texture and heal from damage and irritation.
Milk Exosomes: these milk-derived exosomes not only help deliver ingredients deeper into skin but also help improve skin barrier function and restore the outer lipids of skin cells.
Hydrolyzed collagen: fragmented collagen that helps form a protective barrier and seal in moisture to refresh fine lines of skin.
Centella asciatica extract: favourite of Korean beauty due to its hydrating nature, improvement of skin barrier healing and recovery of scars, burns and spots.
Madecassic acid: extracted from centella, boosts wound healing and helps refresh dark spots for even and refreshed skin tone.
Ceramide NP: small, spongy molecule that helps seal cracks in the skin barrier to improve moisture retention and bring relieve to sensitive and dry skin.
Salicylic acid: BHA extracted from willow bark, providing deep exfoliation and clearance of pores to balance oily skin and reduce appearance of acne.
Who Should Avoid?
This piercing spicule serum is designed to be gentle and moisturizing for acne-prone skin, but the spicules are likely to be too disruptive to sensitive skin. I would also caution against using in quite severe acne, as spicules haven’t been studied properly in acne-prone skin and that interaction is unknown. Otherwise, it's best used in oily/combination skin for a deeper absorption of azelaic acid.
The Results
As mentioned before, I’ve trialled out Medicube’s PDRN exosome serum and although it yielded fantastic, visible results – the irritation was too much for my skin type. Using it in my nightly routine created general redness, acne spots and irritation that I just couldn’t justify continuing in my routine (despite the epic cheekbone lift I got). So, my confusion was palpable when Medicube released an exosome/spicule serum with azelaic acid.
After all, azelaic acid was designed for redness and acne – surely combining it into a spicule serum wouldn’t be enough to overcome the irritation of microneedling? Needless, I am nothing if not experimental, so I substituted the azelaic acid serum into my evening routine and watched the results over two weeks.
I was so excited at the stark difference of reaction my skin had compared to the PDRN spicule serum. There was zero irritation, redness or acne breakouts; in fact it helped massively reduce red spots and acne scars that were left over from previous outbreaks. It was light, hydrating and helped calm my skin whilst also firming. It really brought out the benefits of azelaic acid, with deep absorption. It boosted my exfoliation, helped balance oiliness and, importantly, really helped reduce acne spots. I did use the lower dose (2000) over the 7500, which may have had a stronger firming action, but I was really happy with the results and low irritation.
Final Thoughts
This spicule serum is a great addition for oily skin (especially acne-prone or red skin). It helps firm and lift appearance, whilst also tackling dark spots and acne scars, which is really exciting. I used the lower dose, so can’t speak for the effects or potential irritation of the 7500 – but really recommend this serum to anyone looking to boost their current azelaic acid routine.
Looking for more fantastic Medicube products? Shop the whole range on Arktastic! From exciting new jelly mist serums to retinol, we have it all!
Excited for more K-beauty reads? Check out our original PDRN exosome serum review. Or if you're curious about Medicube, read our deep-dive into their product history.
