The Science of Double Cleansing - Do You Need It In Your Routine?

Cleansing is a cornerstone of Korean beauty and pore care. This step typically starts with a rich, double cleansing routine that involves the use of two facial cleansers of different textures. It involves first using an oil cleanser on dry skin, emulsifying, then washing well with a foamy cleanser in lukewarm water. They can also escalate this with an exfoliators, cleansing pads, exfoliating serums, toning pads and more – helping strip away dead skin cells, improve brightness and clear pores for both smaller, glassy pores and acne care. 

But this can be a lot and is certainly not for all skin types! A lot of complaints come out of double cleansing, but this can be boiled down to two key issues: 

1. Double Cleansing is not compatible with your skin type. 
2. The technique is not being performed well.

So, who should be using a double cleansing routine? How do you perform it well and maximize benefits? And what is the science behind it all? Check out our hot tips and recommendations below. 

Whether or not you’ll benefit from a double cleansing routine really narrows down to; will your skin benefit from adding a cleansing oil to it? So, why use a cleansing oil? 

Originally dating back to ancient Japan, cleansing oils were used before the invention of foaming cleansers. These cleansers were able to draw deep impurities and trapped oils from the skin to the surface, using emulsification (i.e. the deep facial oil was attracted to and would travel towards the cleansing oil).

The reason why foaming cleansers quickly took over and dominated the market came down to one, simple reason:

                                          Oil cleansers are difficult to wash off.

After all, oil is naturally sticky and thick and if you miss any spots, you risk outbreaks and skin irritation. Modern oil cleansers have worked hard to remedy this, but they are still an important consideration in acne-prone and oily skin.

If you are wanting to use an oil cleanser to help improve pore care and acne, it's vital to pick a lightweight, oil compatible cleansing oil that is designed to work deeply, exfoliate and then wash away well.

Modern Cleansing Oils fit into two main uses: either as part of a double cleansing routine or on their own for dry skin care.

Double Cleansing:

• Oily skin
• Large pore care
• Acne spots
• Treatment of combination skin

Oil-Based Cleanser for Daily Use:

• Dry skin
• Fine Lines
• Sensitive and Damaged Skin Biome

If you have dry skin, fine lines and need a gentle hydration that doesn't irritate or strip the skin, you can use a good quality cleansing oil on its own for a gentle cleanse that improves natural moisture.

However, if you have oily skin and acne - a cleansing oil must be paired with a rich, foaming cleanser that can provide a deep, deep clean and ensures no residue is left behind.

Double cleansing (having two steps) sounds easy enough, and it pretty much is! It is important to make sure you understand the basics, though, to ensure you are getting all the benefits without any of the downsides!

Step 1: Dry Skin + Oil Cleanser

Apply two pumps of cleansing oil to your fingerips and gently massage into your skin in circular motions. Applying it to dry skin maximises the ability of the cleanser to draw deep impurities to the surface, allowing it to move towards the natural oils in the cleanser.

Step 2: Massage Well

It's vital to massage the oil cleanser into your skin well, to ensure great contact with skin and to exfoliate away dead skin cells. After 1 minute, apply a splash of water, until the oils turn a milky white.

Step 3: Rinse

Wash with lukewarm water (not too hot!), continuing to massage well until skin feels clear of oil.

Step 4: Deep Foam Cleanse

The final step is the foam cleanser. Apply to your now-wet skin and massage again, in the opposite direction circles to the oil cleanser. You want to be sure all the oil is freed from your pores, so rinse very well for clean, dry skin.

Bonus: Be sure to apply your skincare routine shortly after cleansing! It's when your skin is more permeable, meaning your skincare will absorb better.

Similar to most skincare, this is unique to your individual skin's needs. This is because it's not only based on your unique skin type, but also the weather outside, other skincare products you use and whether you use make-up and SPF daily.

Double cleansing is ideal in your PM routine, especially if you need a deep cleanse of make-up and impurities before bed. It's also beneficial daily in acne-prone skin, where you are struggling with recurrent outbreaks (as long as you are taking your time with the cleansing and rinsing).

Otherwise, you can limit double cleansing to twice weekly, or even just once a week, when you feel like you need a deeper pore cleanse.If your skin is feeling tight or dry, chances are you might be overdoing it and you can reduce the amount of cleansing required.

Interested in double cleansing but concerned about things going wrong or (worse) picking an incompatible cleansing set?

There are a few key things you should look for in your double cleansing set to be sure you're looking out for your skin health. 

❌ No harmful cleansing agents, such as bicarbonate or SLES (which can harmfully unbalance your natural pH or damage the biome)

❌ Avoid cleansing oils with large, pore irritating ingredients (i.e. lanolin, coconut oil, shea butter).

✔️ Find natural, lightweight cleansing oils that will be able to penetrate pores, without causing occlusion (i.e. sunflower oil, rice bran oil, jojoba oil).

If you're still struggling, check out our top 5 picks for K-Beauty cleansing sets that are ideal for balancing oily skin, reducing acne and helping you feel deeply refreshed and clean every time!

This cleansing set is perfect for a bit of fun in your routine. It’s not as well suited for acne, but is great for oily skin that needs a little bounce and the soothing refreshment of green tea extract. It’s lightweight, refreshing and a little bit of fun!

This sensitive skincare set helps combine a variety of black rice extracts with soothing oils and cleansing bamboo. It delivers a rich cleanse, whilst maintaining a deep hydration and is the perfect addition to sensitive skin that needs a restorative balance.

Refresh your skin with a deep, revitalizing cleanse that is deeply infused with natural, healing extracts. From tea tree to clear acne and olive oil to restore your skin’s shine, this minimalist duo is the perfect addition to a combination or oily skin routine. It’s nourishing, healing & perfect for your everyday cleansing needs.

This refreshing, classic K-Beauty set is perfect for oily skin and can help reduce acne outbreaks well. It has a soothing heartleaf-based cleansing oil and follows with a brightening quercetinol/heartleaf extract that helps exfoliate, balance oils and leaves your skin clean and dry. Perfect for reducing acne spots and clearing excess sebum.

If you're after deep pore care, this special formula by Medicube is specifically designed to help deeply clear and exfoliate skin, whilst also reducing pore appearance. It's a soft routine that is perfect for your glass skin needs (and a little extra brightness to your skin).

It's an incredibly austere duo that is perfect for oily skin and acne-prone skin that needs a little treatment to glow.

At the end of the day, double cleansing is just one of many techniques that can be used to refresh and give you your best glow. It's important to examine your own skin's unique needs and be sure you are picking products that suit you.

If you're after the perfect facial cleanser for your routine, check out the diverse range on Arktastic! 😺

Upgrade your skincare routine with our blog! With tailor-made guides to your unique skin type to in-house reviews (complete with product before-and-after and how to use).

Check out our guide to winter bodycare or our new review on the hydrating Medicube Hyaluronic Ceramide Cream:

What is double cleansing? 

A two-step routine using an oil cleanser first on dry skin, followed by a foaming cleanser, to remove impurities, makeup and dead skin cells.

Who should double cleanse? 

It’s most beneficial for oily skin, large pores, acne, and combination skin. Dry or sensitive skin types may prefer using a cleansing oil alone rather than a full double cleanse.

How do you double cleanse properly? 

Apply oil cleanser to dry skin and massage for about a minute until it turns milky, rinse with lukewarm water, then follow with a foam cleanser massaged in the opposite direction and rinsed thoroughly.

How often should you double cleanse? 

 Daily in a PM routine or for acne-prone skin, or just twice weekly to weekly if your skin feels tight or dry from over-cleansing.

What should you avoid in a double cleansing set? 

Harsh agents like bicarbonate or SLES, and pore-clogging oils such as lanolin, coconut oil or shea butter. Look for lightweight oils like sunflower, rice bran or jojoba instead.